Grizzly Adam.net» How To

How To: Get Climbing Legs

Grizzly Adam — Mon, 13 Jun 2011 14:00:31 +0000

How do you become a better climber?

Easy.

Climb.

Oh. Not so easy.

Nevertheless, it can be an enjoyable process. Especially so when the climb is 3,000 vertical of smooth, winding, dirt road. Skyline Drive. And so we climbed. And climbed. Until the snows of winter, which have long overstayed their welcome, prevented us from continuing higher, and further. But there was an obvious, if not so glamourous work-around: Hill repeats.

But at least the views were… adequate.

Up. Down. And then up again.

Eric found the effort to his liking:

As did Gordon:

Under any other circumstances, Skyline Drive would be stellar. But that each of us were there to imitate the effort of, and test gear for, the Crusher, the workout was superlative. Today my legs are dull and achey. But happy. And hungry for more. My high-speed ‘cross descending skills are better. If only marginally. But my braking doubts are gone. The CX-9 Mini V’s eliminated those. Which bike? ‘Cross. Which tires? Ask me later.

I can only hope that the bulldozer that was busily shoving snow around, will help the sun in its effort to melt away the massive wall of white. On Skyline Drive, but also in the Tushars. Maybe all the Crusher racers can pool some cash together, and rent a ‘dozer?

Searching for your climbing legs?

Look up.

How To: Ride the White Rim in a Day

Grizzly Adam — Tue, 26 Apr 2011 15:11:55 +0000

Grandview Point, Moab.

The White Rim is the best dirt-road tour in Utah. And maybe anywhere. Located almost entirely within Canyonlands National Park, it is peppered with amazing scenery—remote box canyons, precarious towers, and illogical sandstone formations—and is, in my opinion, the very best method for exploring the Park. As awe-inspiring as Grandview Point is, nothing compares to actually submersing oneself into the depths of the canyon country—human powered, quick, silent, and rewarding. You will see more in one day on your bike, than you could in a lifetime staring down from the viewpoint above.

The White Rim has a reputation for being an ‘easy’ 100 mile ride. Easy? Compared to what? 100 miles is still 100 miles. That several of those miles are smooth dirt road does not mean that there are not still miles and miles of rugged, primitive, rough terrain—along with nearly 7,500 feet of elevation gain. The White Rim is a mountain bike route. Leave your ‘cross or touring bikes at home. Full-suspension is perfectly appropriate, and appreciated.

However, the White Rim is an ideal 100 mile route for the first-time off-road centurion. There is very little technical (by Moab standards) riding, and the navigation is as straightforward as can be. None of the climbs are longer than the Shafer Switchbacks, which, if you are a first-timer, ought to be ridden down. That is, ride the loop clockwise. Hundreds of people ride the White Rim each year. Many of them ride the entire loop in just one day. It won’t be easy, but as far as off-road 100 milers are concerned, it can be one of the most beginner friendly.

How?

Know the Route.

This seems self-explanatory, but needs saying anyway: know the route. Search for trip reports, blog posts, or forum threads about riding the White Rim in a day. Look at a map before the ride. Memorize the names of landmarks. This is really easy on the White Rim. Every 15-20 miles there is a campground with a toilet. The toilets are all very visible—and labeled. They are an easy way to mark your progress, especially if you have made notes, or memorized the general mileage markers of each campground. For example, if you start the ride at the entrance gate to the Park, and ride clockwise, the Gooseberry campsite is about 30 miles into the route. The Park has free maps at the visitors center, as well as a PDF version. If you have a GPS, download the .gpx file. It’s almost impossible to get lost*. With the exception of Potash Road, which intersects the White Rim Road at the bottom of the Shafer Switchbacks (and leads into Moab), there are no intersecting roads that lead anywhere. They each dead end at a campsite, or a boat launch within a mile or two. However, knowing the route, and knowing where you are on the route, is a vital part of a successful and enjoyable trip around the White Rim.

*It’s not my fault if you get lost.

Know Your Abilities.

If you are considering the White Rim in a Day, then you are probably a mountain biker. Which means, you have some level of experience and fitness. The White Rim will challenge whatever those leves are. Even well-traveled riders have difficulty finishing the route. An unexpected bonk, mechanical problem, or weather event can fundamentally change the nature of the route. If spending 8-12 hours in the saddle, in remote terrain, is not something you have done, you might want to consider a few preliminary rides. At the very least, ride the White Rim with a support vehicle. If you are ready for a self-supported—you carry all your gear, food, and tools—attempt, just keep in mind that once you descend into the bowels of the Rim, there is no easy way out. The White Rim has no shortcuts, bailouts, water, convience stores, or anything else. Cell phone coverage is non-existant. It’s as empty as can be. And while it’s common to encounter other riders, don’t count on them being able or willing to offer assistance.

Watch the Weather.

The ideal time to ride the White Rim is in the spring or fall. The temperatures will be cooler. Leading up to the ride, watch the weather in the area. Has it been raining? Windy? Unseasonably hot or cold? If rain is in the area, bring rain gear. If the days have been hotter than normal, or just warmer than what you are currently acclimated to, bring more fluid than you think you will need. This is easy if you have a support vehicle. If not, then prepare to carry 150-200 oz. of fluid.** Bring a cycling computer or GPS. The White Rim is monotonous and vast, and it can be difficult to know how long or how far you’ve been riding without a clock and odometer. Start early. Carry a headlamp. Keep moving. 100 miles is a long way to pedal a bike.

**You might need more, you might need less.

The Ideal Starting Point

Exactly where to begin (and which direction to ride) pedaling the loop can change the ride significantly. My favorite is this: Park a vehicle in the dirt parking lot at the end of Mineral Bottom Road (about 13 miles from Highway 313), at the top of the Horsethief Switchbacks, and ride the loop clockwise. This will allow you to ride the brain-numbing Mineral Bottom Road, and Highway 313 pavement early in the ride. In this direction you will also pass through the Park entrance, so bring $5 per rider for your day pass. A clockwise loop will send you down Shafer Road, rather than up it at mile 80. Riding clockwise also means that you will climb the shorter (if steeper) sides of Murphy’s Hogsback and Hardscrabble. The final climb of the day, Horsethief, will come at mile 99. It is a rewarding way to finish out your day.

The White Rim is one of my favorite rides. I love riding in the open, immense landscape and seeing again the familiar towers and canyons and blackbrush. I’ve ridden the loop 6 times in the last 4 years. Nevertheless, each time I see something new, and learn a little more about the area. It is beautiful and terrible and wonderful. Ride it. In a day. With friends, or solo, as a TT, or as a liesure social ride. But be prepared, and understand what you are getting yourself into. Either way, you will never forget your first Ride Around the White Rim in One Day.

A few more resources:

Official NPS White Rim Road Page.
Detailed Description of the White Rim at Utah Trails.
National Geographic Photo Journal.
Satellite Map.
Interactive 360 degree Pano.

Henry Mountains, Canyonlands, Moab.

How To: Dawn Patrol

Grizzly Adam — Fri, 17 Dec 2010 14:00:59 +0000

There is nothing inherently complex about a Dawn Patrol. And yes, despite Dug’s insistence to the contrary, I will now, and forever, use that term.

Step 1: Get up absurdly early and hike up a mountain.

Step 2: Keep hiking.

Step 3: Hike a little more. And enjoy the sunrise.

Step 4: Stop hiking. Commiserate with friends about the recently finished hike.

Step 5: Ski down the mountain.

Step 6: Take epic snow-beard self portrait.

Step 7: Repeat any of the above as needed.

How To: Backcountry Ski (Part 2)

Grizzly Adam — Tue, 14 Dec 2010 14:00:27 +0000

Box Elder Peak

In part 1 I covered some of the basics in gear, and in mindset. I wanted to go into a little more detail about gear. As a gear nerd I am constantly on the look-out for cool gadgets, tools, clothing, and whatever else I can find that will have some minor or rare use in any given situation. For the most part, however, there are several items that are regularly useful, and easy enough to carry in your pack, that there is really no reason not to have them. Or at least, some of them. Of course, when it comes to gear that you will be hauling around on your back while trudging up tall mountains, weight is always an issue.

Snow Study Gear.

Study Kit: A snow study kit can be quite extensive. It can include crystal cards, a microscope, and thermometers. Why? One of the primary causes of weak snow is faceting. Temperature gradients in the snow can cause the snow crystals to mutate in shape and cohesive bonding power. Generally speaking, round crystals bond better, while pointed, faceted ones do not. Snow crystal cards are plastic cards that contain information and rulers for identifying and measuring the snow crystals. The thermometer is used to determine the different temperature gradients within the snowpack. Large gradients, especially in shallow snow (see, 2009, Utah), are a major cause of weak snow, and avalanches.

Do you need a snow study kit? That depends on your intent to actually stop and study the snow. I don’t carry one. In the pits and the analysis we’ve done in the field, looking at the snow in that sort of detail hasn’t been needed. Dawn Patrols are usually an in and out experience as well, which means that time is usually at a premium (That, and much of the time we are in the dark). However, if detailed snow study is something you are planning to engage in, a snow study kit is a lightweight addition to your pack. One that can illuminate the details of your snow pit quite remarkably.

Slope Meter: A slope meter, or inclinometer, performs a basic, but vital task: it measures your slope angle. the magic number in the avalanche world is 30. As in 30 degrees. Any slope steeper than that is capable of sliding. That doesn’t mean that slopes shallower than 30 degrees will not slide—only that the probability is significantly less. Many compasses (another very useful item), and even some newer models of beacons, have slope meters built into them. Learn how to use the one you’ve got, and use it often. Especially if you are touring in unfamiliar terrain.

Snow saw: A snow saw is a great tool when digging snow pits and performing various stability tests. Mine attaches to the end of my pole, for an extended reach. It slips nicely, and flatly into my pack and I hardly know it’s there. So, like the other snow study items, carry one if you plan to use one.

Repair, Emergency, and Safety Gear:

Rope: A solid length of rope is infinitely useful in the backcountry. Cut cornices or snow pits and columns with it. Belay your partner so he can stomp a cornice. Rappel a cliffband or other obstacle. Rescue a partner. Repair gear. It’s inexpensive and relatively light. It should sit nicely in the bottom of your pack.

Voile Straps: These little rubber straps are amazing. Cheap, durable, and weightless. You’ll use them to bind your ski tips together when you are booting, and probably in the car, to keep them from rattling around. I’ve seen skiers repair bindings with them. They are the duct tape of the wintery backcountry. Carry a few with you everywhere you go.

First-Aid Kit: For obvious reasons, find a decent backpacking kit and slip it into your pack.

Skin Wax: At some point your skins will become saturated with heavy, wet snow. Some Glop Stopper wax will put an end to that.

Navigation

Maps: Find a good map of your local mountains. It will come in handy more often than you think. My favorite for the Wasatch Mountains are the touring maps from Alpentech.

GPS: If you have one, carry it. Even the bike-centric Edge series from Garmin can be useful, especially so if you have the 605/705 loaded with topo maps.

Compass: Useful for more than just navigation, a compass is a great tool for learning your slope aspect, and if it is capable, your slope angle.

SPOT: While the SPOT locator is becoming a popular way to follow along with ultra-endurance bike races, they are still, first and foremost, a safety device. If you have one, carry one, especialaly for long tours. But in the event of a burial, it won’t help anyone rescue you, although it may help in recovering your body. And pushing 911 on a SPOT won’t help you dig out anyone else. Why? Time. Avalanche victims have about 15 minutes before they black out. A SPOT won’t bring anyone to you that quickly. And that’s why rescues have to be performed by you and your partners.

And finally…

Bring a camera. For obvious reasons:

Bonkers.

How To: Backcountry Ski

Grizzly Adam — Wed, 17 Nov 2010 14:00:54 +0000

Cyclocross season is starting to wind down. The mountains are filling with snow. Autumn is giving way to winter. Ski season is staring us all flat in the face, waiting impatiently to dominate our thoughts and free time. Each year more and more people are venturing into the backcountry for their powder fix. And who can blame them? The potential for waist deep powder, iconic lines, and grand adventure is multiplied ten-fold when skiing wild snow. The mountains become accessible in a way that is nearly impossible during the summer months, creating a million acres of white and creamy possibility. My own foray into the backcountry was just 2 seasons ago. I’ve learned a lot since then. And I hope I will continue to learn with each and every tour. Knowledge and experience are paramount while skiing out-of-bounds. The rewards of first tracks come with the risk of avalanches and other untamed aspects of the mountains—tree skiing, hidden boulders and logs, stream crossings, and no ski patrol anywhere in sight. But the risks can be mitigated and managed if one is prepared. Part of being prepared is having the right gear, mindset, and expectations. Below are some of my observations.

This is not meant to be a definitive manifesto. I want it to be a discussion. So feel free to add your own insights or rebuttals in the comments section below.

The Stairway to Heaven

Gear: Basics

Skis: Finding a pair of skis is a little like finding a good bike. They sort of choose you. There are many great options for touring these days. Generally you want something fat (100+ mm) underfoot, and possibly a little longer than you’d normally ride in the resort. But it’s largely a matter of preference and ability. A fatter, longer ski will give you more float in the deep snow, but will be heavier, and probably harder to maneuver on the up-track. So, like everything in life, you will have to compromise a little. I currently ride the Black Diamond Verdict Ski. It’s fat, but not overly so. It’s a solid all-round ski. I’ve enjoyed them, and plan to ski on on them for at least one more season. However, I might try something a little fatter next time. Bottom line: Find a ski that fits your body, your budget, and your riding style. There are many, many great choices.

Skins: Several gear makers sell skins. I have used the very basic Black Diamond Ascension skins for 2+ seasons. They work well, and have been very durable. When you buy a pair of climbing skins, be sure to get some that are wide enough to fit the waist of your skis. Most are shipped plenty wide for most skis, and will actually require trimming. Trim your skins as close to the metal edge of your ski as possible, especially at the waist. Click here for a video tutorial on trimming climbing skins.

Boots: Touring boots are easy, yet difficult to pick out. Easy: Find something that fits comfortably. Hard: Find something that fits comfortably. Find a good ski shop that carries a large variety of touring boots. The REI in Salt Lake City—and probably your town—is a good place to start. Try on everything. And then try them on again. Touring boots might be the most important piece of equipment (outside of safety gear) you will use. Nothing ruins a great day of skiing like hella sore feet. Trust me. Another reason they are an important choice is that they will last you a long time. You might ski with the same pair of boots for 10 years. You want boots that fit. Once you’ve settled on a pair, have a reputable dealer heat mold them to your feet. It’s well worth the additional cost—many shops will fit you for free. When you’ve got the boots home, wear them around with the socks you plan to ski in. I like ultra-thin ski socks. Your socks won’t help to keep your feet warm. Your boots will do that just fine. Break the boots in. And at night, keep them inside. You want them warmer than colder. I’m not sure if there is any scientific reason for that, but I know that putting on warm boots at 5:30 AM is better than putting on cold boots at 5:30 AM. Oh, and after a tour, pull out the liners and let them air dry. Bottom line: Find a pair of boots that fits.

Poles: Any pair will do. I skied for a long time with a cheap pair of non-adjustable poles. Ho-hum. Toward the end of last season I upgraded to an adjustable set. The difference was remarkable. Being able to telescope your pole-height for different climbing conditions is a nice perk. But really, any old set of poles will do. Especially if you are prone to losing stuff. And poles have a way of being dropped in the backcountry.

Bindings: The market for alpine touring bindings is expanding. Get a pair that is compatible with your boots. Find something durable, and relatively light. I am a fan of the Dynafit TLT Vertical FT Z12 Binding. They are simple, adjustable, super light, easy to use, and have no moving parts. Make sure a reputable shop drills your skis, and mounts the bindings for you. Once you’ve got them on, practice at home getting in and out. You’ll appreciate the experience once you’re on the hill. Bottom line: Lots of choices. Get something durable and compatible with your boots. Simple is better.

Gear: Safety

Beacon: Get a beacon. Your own beacon. Borrowing one is fine once or twice, but get your own. Learn to use it. Practice with it. There are many great beacons on the market. I use the
Backcountry Access Tracker DTS Beacon. It’s one of the most popular models in the backcountry because it’s affordable and easy to use. There are more expensive beacons that have more features, but only one feature—being able to locate another beacon—will save lives. Your beacon will become a major part of your touring. Most shops will let you demo different models. Try a few out. After you’ve bought yours, head out with a buddy to an open field or beacon park and practice. Bottom line: Practice, practice, practice. You do not want to be fiddling with your beacon when someones life is on the line.

Shovel: Just don’t get a plastic one. Black Diamond, BCA, and others all make lightweight, durable shovels.

Probe: Black Diamond makes a fantastic quick release probe. It assembles quickly, breaks down cleanly, and packs away nice and snug. Length is the primary variable in probes. It’s probably better to have one that’s too long, than one that’s too short. (That’s what she said)

Pack: There is really no reason not to get an AvaLung Pack. They are inexpensive, they work well, and they are designed to carry your ski gear. Again, Black Diamond makes a wide variety of AvaLung packs. Find one that fits your needs and style. If you already have a pack that you just don’t want to give up, I suggest buying the AvaLung shoulder sling. Economically speaking however, a pack is the better investment. I think it’s better to get a pack that is a bit larger in volume than you think you’ll need, rather than a smaller one. It’s never a bad thing to have a little extra room in your pack. A good ski pack will have a place for your shovel and probe. It will fit your helmet (yes, wear a helmet), plus other gear—first aid kit, rope, lunch, an extra layer, etc. Bottom Line: A durable pack is like a good pair of boots. You’ll use it for a long time.

Knowledge

Become an avalanche nerd. Seriously. Avalanches are fascinating. They really are. The different causes and reasons for them are many, and sometimes overly complex. Knowing how and why they happen is interesting, but also mandatory. You don’t need to become a snow scientist, just a snow-nerd. Your local USFS office probably has a team of avalanche forecasters. Find out if they have a newsletter. Read it as often as they send it out. The Utah Avalanche Center is an amazing group of dedicated individuals. The daily avalanche reports are the first thing I read each morning, regardless if I am going to ski that day. Reading these kind of reports, coupled with being out in the snow will help you to get to know your snow pack. As you become more familiar with your local snow pack, the weather patterns, and current conditions, you will soon be able to predict fairly accurately what the next forecast will contain. Like Bruce Tremper likes to say, “Know Snow”.

And speaking of Bruce Tremper: Buy his book. Staying Alive in Avalanche Terrain is the definitive textbook for avalanche study. It gets technical at times, but nonetheless, it’s a very valuable resource. After you’ve read the book, take an avalanche certification course. They are as valuable as they are fun. Especially if you attend with friends.

Watch videos, read Avy reports, and poke around in the snow while you are out on the slopes. The more you know, the more you know. Talk about what you are seeing with your ski partners. It’s not taboo to talk avalanches while skiing the backcountry. Watch. Observe. See. Or, to steal another Tremper-ism: Wear your avalanche goggles. If you are staying up on the current reports, and paying attention to the how’s and why’s that are causing avalanches, you should never be caught off guard. However, you will be caught off guard. So be smart.

Bottom Line: It’s not nerdy to be an avalanche nerd.

Expectations

Not every day in the backcounty is going to be creamy deep powder. Some days will be icy and lame. Others might be wet and heavy. And others yet, will simply be miserable—cold, windy, lousy. But many, many days will be amazing and unforgettable. Nonetheless, managing your expectations will go a long way in keeping you safe, and sane in wild snow. As good as that line off of Superior might look from where you are standing, it may be out of your league, unstable, or simply too far away for today. It’s easy to get caught up in the white room feeding frenzy. But pushing the limits of daylight, your physical ability, or the stability of the snow will cause trouble. Sometimes it’s all right to ski back to your car, even if you do have a little extra time or energy.

Wild snow is different than resort snow. It’s not built on a base of groomed, packed, cut runs. It’s just… there, on top of whatever was lying in the way when it fell. Over time a nice compacted base will evolve, but there are still tree stumps, boulders, smaller trees, cliff lines, and any number of other obstacles lurking under the snow. Skiing the backcountry will feel differently than a resort. The snow is different. You’ll also nee to to ski through trees from time to time. Be prepared for that.

Have fun. Enjoy the outdoors. A day of mediocre snow is better than a day of no snow. Be happy out there. It’s the mountains!

Bottom line: If you are considering skiing the backcounty there is obviously a lot of homework to do. The initial investment in time and money can be steep. Borrow gear when you can. Ease into everything if you must. Ski with good partners. The guys I ski with are great. I trust my life with them—40 to 50 days a year.

The backcountry has opened up a new appreciation of the Wasatch mountains for me. I can’t look at the peaks and ridglines the same anymore. Touring in the winter will acquaint you with the intimate details of your mountain range. That is perhaps the best return on this investment I’ve had. That, and the fact that no longer are the winters a dark and dreary, bike-less dearth of despair and fidgety, unhinged impatience. instead, I enjoy and look forward to the cold and snow and skiing, nearly as much as I do the summer, and heat and singletrack.

How To: Return to the Office

Grizzly Adam — Wed, 13 Oct 2010 20:13:36 +0000

We’ve all had to return to work after a great weekend of racing or riding. And we’ve all had a coworker ask that inevitable question: “How was your weekend? ” After a brief pause, as you try and determine the best way to answer the question, and upon realizing that there is no possible way to explain the singletrack or the mountain passes or the hurt and the joy, you simply say “Pretty good. Yours?” Meanwhile the details of whatever it was you did start to swirl around in your groggy, muddled head. Your feet and fingertips and quads ache or tingle. Or, ache and tingle. You stare blankly at the computer screen. The cubical walls are fantastically drab and lifeless. The meaningless office chatter is even more meaningless. In fact, work itself—the job and everything that goes with it—seem completely irrelevant and mundane.

Below are a few suggestions on how to return to life at the office, after getting—yet another— taste of just how boring it really is:

When asked “How was your weekend?” Reply with: “Awesome. I only puked 3 times and now I can’t feel my hands.”
Order an entire pizza for lunch. Along with a side of a burger and fries. Wash it down with a gallon of ice cream and some chocolate milk. Eat it all at your desk. Your coworkers will be impressed, or disgusted. Either way, you win.
Arrive on Monday in the same chamois and socks that you wore at the race.
Use the sink in the break room to wash your gloves.
Hand out left-over gel packets to your cube-mates. They’ll love them! Especially if they were ones you had tucked up under your shorts all day.
Spend the day looking for event photos, blog posts, and news articles. I mean, more time than you are already spending doing those things.
Stand behind one of your coworkers and time them while they work. Be impatient about it. After a short amount of time demand the baton from them, tell them to go eat and rest up, and to be ready to “ride” in a few minutes.
Wear your helmet and head light—burning bright of course—at your desk.

If the above suggestions don’t help abate the overwhelming despair and undeniable futility of returning to the office, there is but one last solution. Show up on Monday looking like this fellow, and hope you get fired:

Photo by Xavier Fane

How To: Load Tracks Into Your Garmin

Grizzly Adam — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:00:11 +0000

Bike computers that use GPs technology to calculate speed and distance are commonplace. Especially int he mountain bike world, where mapping and tracking routes is an important aspect of endurance riding. Events like the Dixie Lite, the Arizona Trail Race, and even the Great Divide Race are all largely made possible by GPS computers. And while those types of events can be done with out a GPS—indeed Fred Wilkinson rode the Dixie Lite with paper maps—they are easier to promote, navigate and finish with electronic maps.

But even an everyday ride, standard 100 miler, or weekend exploration session can benefit from the use of a GPS bike computer. It was my Garmin 705, and the loaded track, that saved me from going catastrophically off-route on several occasions during the 2009 Point 2 Point. Which was no fault of the way the course was marked. But rather a side effect of my inability to see certain colors when matched with other certain colors. In this case: Orange on Brown or Green. I simply could not see the bright orange paint on the trail. But that is another story altogether.

With the 2010 Point 2 Point quickly approaching, and several anxious riders spending day after day riding sections of the course, the question has come up several times of how to best utilize the GPS files that have been posted at the P2P website. It’s a good question, that really does not have just one answer. The unit you are using, the base maps you have installed, and the type of file you’ve decided to utilize will all play a significant role in how your race-day navigation will work. I’ve outlined below what I like to do with my Garmin 705. What follows will only work on a Garmin 605/705. If you are using a 205/305/500 you are best using a course file—which I have very little experience with.

Disclaimer: This is not fool-proof. GPS files are still rather sensitive things, but I’ve had the most consistent success following these steps:

But First: Why I like track files.

Track files are exactly what they sound like: tracks. In other words, they are simply a line drawn onto your map. If you have topographic maps installed into your Edge, then that is all the better. But a track file will load just as well on your factory basemap. And your location carrot—that small triangle that represents you—will sit on top of that track, so long as you are on course. If you deviate from that track, it becomes fairly obvious. Mostly. There is some level of “float” the further zoomed into the track you are. This is especially apparent on a tight, winding course like the P2P. But even that is usually corrected as you continue on course. Track files are relatively easy to install, and don’t require any navigation, that is, there is no need to set up your unit to prompt you on turns or upcoming intersections. While that can be a useful feature, it can also be extremely annoying. Remarkably so after 5, or 9 hours in the saddle.

Trust me.

In the case of the Point 2 Point, a GPS file will be a supplement to the course markings. When in doubt, use the marking on the ground. Unless you can’t see them. In that case… pray to heaven you have a good track. The point being… don’t be Michael Scott.

Allright, at last, here is how it all happens. And by all means, if you have suggestions (or questions), or better ideas, leave them in the comments section.

1. Download your desired files. Files for the P2P can be found right here. Save the files to your hard drive (you may want to rename them) where you can easily find them. I made a new folder on my desktop called “2010 P2P”.
1A. At the Garmin Connect page, choose “Export –>GPX.*

*If you are using a 205/305/500, or prefer to use a course file, simply use the “Send to Device” option (see below for more).

2. Plug your 605/705 into your computer with the mini-usb cable.

3. Mount the unit as a removable device. On a Mac, this happens by default. In your finder window a hard drive called “Garmin” will appear. If you have an additional data card (highly recommended), that will also appear as “untitled”. On a Windows machine you will probably have to detect the new hardware in order for it mount.

4. Copy the downloaded files to the “GPX” folder on your Garmin unit. If you have a data card installed, copy them to that GPX folder instead.

5. Once the files are all copied, unmount the GPS and go to “Where To?” in the menu of your unit.

6. Choose “Saved Rides.” The files should be listed here.

7. Choose the first one listed, you should now see a window that reads: Navigate, Map Setup, Copy to Card/Device, Delete. Choose Map Setup.

8. The Map Setup screen will display some basic information about that track. It will also allow you to change the color of the track. But the most important option is the “Show on Map” checkbox. Make sure it is checked. After that, you can choose “Map” to see a preview of the track on your map. Select “OK” to go back to your list of tracks.

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 for all of the tracks, which in the case of the Point 2 Point, will be a total of 6—unless a master file is released.

10. Once you have chosen them all to “Show on Map” they will… all show up on your map. But note that only the one you have selected will show up when you choose the “Map” preview. In other words, the default map that cycles through your screens when you push “Mode” will have the entire route as a nicely drawn line leading you through the labryth of forests and big, big climbs, and eventually to triumphant victory** at the finish line.

**I can’t guarantee your victory.

It’s that easy. Which is, not exactly easy, is it? But it is the best way that I know of. However, there is another method that you can try:

Plug in your device and turn it on.***

***That’s what she said.

At the Garmin Connect page choose “Send to Device”.

This option sends a course file to your GPS, and is probably the best way to load the route onto the 205/305/500 series, but will work with the 605/705 series as well. In this case, go to the Courses file on your GPS, and navigate the route from that.

Any questions?

Lose Weight Now!

Grizzly Adam — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 17:02:24 +0000

I have, in the past, publicly talked about trying to slim down, drop a few pounds, and as a result, become faster on my bike. That ongoing endeavor has proven more difficult that I thought it would be. However, I discovered a not-so-secret secret. That is, the answer was staring me in the face all along. The most effective, fastest, albeit rather unpleasant way to drop a few pounds is simple:

Get sick.

Today I weigh 174 pounds. That is what I weighed in 2006, and is only 9 pounds heavier than my senior year cross-country running weight at Orem High School, class of 1996. In January of this year, at Camp Lynda, I tipped the scales at 190. As heavy as I have ever been. But sometime in late February or early March, after dropping about 5 pounds, I got sick. Nothing serious, just a head cold accompanied by a loss of appetite and energy. A week later I was 179 pounds.

And then, last week I had a stomach bug. It kept me home from a race. It was miserable. I hated it. But after it passed (literally…ewww) I was down another 5 pounds, to where I am today. Surprisingly, the weight dropped while I was sick, has never come back, as I expected it would. I don’t know if the increase in calories that I am burning these days (it is after all, summertime) is helping that, or if the lower intake of calories while I was sick is carrying over, that is, perhaps I am consuming less? I suppose I could fire up the Livestrong calorie tracker once again. But I hate those things. So tedious. Yet, they are effective.

So, who needs gimmicky diets or expensive pills to lose weight? Forget all the well-established “science” about caloric intake and metabolic rate. That is all so academic, so serious. Want to drop weight? It’s easy!

Just get sick.

It is just like that line from one of my wife’s favorite movies, The Devil Wears Prada: “I am just one stomach virus away from my goal weight!”

Indeed.

Now, you may be wondering, “how does one just go about ‘getting sick’?” I am glad you asked. That too, is very simple. There are a few proven methods. One very obvious strategy is to hang around with other people who are sick. If you live in a community like mine, with a lot of small children, and a lot of churches, attend one for a few weeks. Hang about in the children’s classes, maybe playing with the communal toys a bit. But beware, a new face at a Mormon church meeting is a monumental event for the regularly attending members. Be prepared to be attacked like Alberto Contador on Andy Schleck – but in a loving way.

That is one method. Another involves a less awkward social setting, and might be even more effective. In fact, this one is so obvious that you are going to slap your palm to your face when you read what I am about to write: Drink out of a river*. Yes, it’s that simple! Giardia, or any number of its cousins will certainly have you, um, running out of both ends. And when that happens, you can be sure that the pounds will melt off like hot butter in a microwave.

You can thank me now, or later. Either is fine.

*I’m joking!

How To: Lobby your S.O. for Gear

Grizzly Adam — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 18:14:00 +0000

This post is another in a series of ‘How To’ Posts that I started last year. Click here to read the previous installments.

We all, at one time or another have needed new gear. Whether a bike, or a part for a bike, a new pack, or a pair of shoes, it is inevitable that upgrades and replacements become needed.

Even in this economy.

Personally, I love the process. I love researching new gear, and then finding just what I want at bottom-feeder prices. I spent about 6 weeks reading everything I could find about LED lights leading up to the 2006 KTR. I read reviews, blog posts, forum threads and manufacturers specs. I sent off email after email to the Crackhead himself, Mr. DH, who at that time was in the midst of building his own homebrew LED laser beams. The journey to finding the lights I used was nearly as fun as actually using them.

Almost.

However there are certain obstacles to being able to find, and more importantly buy your new piece of tangible ecstasy. Namely, your Significant Other. So how do you lobby your S.O. in a way that he/she will approve, and even celebrate that new GPS or wheel set or that pair of white gloves?

Here is how I do it:

Safety. Getting new gear means safer, better working gear. Which means you will be less likely to crash due to equipment failure. If your S.O. worries about you out in the desert or along the divide then you can argue that the very best and newest gear is also the very safest gear. And plus, its a great way to advocate for getting a SPOT.
Economic foresight. Spending a “little” money now on a new XYZ will save a lot of money down the road when you would otherwise have to continually try and repair the current XYZ which is failing and has certainly become dangerous (see above).
It’s a great deal. Finding a great price on something is the sedentary version of skiing powder or riding singletrack. You feel like you are cheating the rest of world by finding something that only your fitness and intelligence have allowed you to see. The euphoria is enhanced when you are able to share that with your S.O. “Can you believe how much money I just saved!” It will be hard for your partner to deny the contagious feeling of accomplishment that accompanies finding that steal of a deal.
Sell something. I can justify nearly any purchase if it is offset by selling something I currently own. If I want a new bike, then I need to sell my current one. Now, in addition to being a legitimate way to offset costs, it is also a way to appear responsible to your S.O. They never have to know that the older bike works perfectly fine and there is no good reason to sell it, other than the desire for a new, shinier one to ride.
Accidentally buy it. This is hard to pull off, but you can try and accidentally buy something online. “I don’t know, I thought I was just checking to see what the shipping would be and suddenly I got a receipt thanking me for my purchase of that awesome new set of bindings. I am outraged!” By the time you figure out how to cancel the order it is too late – “dangit, its been processed!” And of course once it arrives the storm may have passed, and you can quietly integrate the new gear into your existing stash. Like I said, it’s hard to pull off, but coming across as an idiot is an easy price to pay for new gear.
Forgiveness is easier than permission. There is that old cliche about asking for forgiveness being easier than asking for permission. Well, I think it is true. And let’s be honest; we men (which I think make up the majority of my readers) are much better at saying sorry than we are at making our case in the first place. I think that must be because we are so very often needing to apologize. So after a while, we simply become very, very good at it.

Now, if none of the above work, there is one last technique that is certain to break down any economic barriers between you feeling triumph or wallowing in guilt when you pull the trigger on that new item. Be warned, this is a highly manipulative tactic that can backfire when used on a savvy S.O. But when it is used correctly it is almost guaranteed to work. I’m referring of course, to the “don’t you love me and want me to be happy” argument. In fact, let’s demonstrate a conversation (hypothetical of course) that employs some of the above mentioned lobbying strategies, including the highly effective, but ultra risky “don’t you love me” hand grenade:

“I really like these skis, they would open up a whole world of winter activity for me.”

“They are expensive”

“Well, yeah if you pay retail, but I can find these for at least half off.”

“How?”

“Websites, clearance sales, I got a buddy who works in the industry, he might be able to swing a good deal for me.”

“Do you really need them?”

(At this point, no verbal response is needed, just a quick glance of repulsive disbelief will suffice)

“We really can’t afford them.”

“I know, not at this price, but like I said, I can get a smokin’ deal for them, and anyway, I was planning on selling my old pair. I got a coworker who wants to get into skiing and he said he’s interested in my Rossignols, which I won’t even need anymore since I am looking to get into touring.”

“Can you sell those first, and then get the new ones?”

“Maybe, but a lot of the sales I have found online are ending soon. I don’t want to miss them and then have to pay retail.”

“I don’t know…”

(She is thinking it through. Now is when you gently pull the pin on the hand grenade you have been keeping in your pocket…)

“Listen, I love the outdoors and you know how much more focused I am when I spend time out there, how much more patient at home I am. How much easier it is to live with me. This will help stave off those restless winter weeks when I get stir crazy and irritable.”

“But…”

(When you say the following, do it cheerfully, almost excitedly)

“Fine. forget it. It’s not a big deal. I will make due riding the trainer in the basement. I can catch up on Lost or something.”

(Start to walk away…this is the crux moment)

“No…OK. Get them. Find a good deal on them and get them.

“Really, are you sure?” (Be humble at this point!)

“Yeah, yeah I think its a good idea.”

“Sweet! Thanks!”

And then strike that iron. Swipe that card, hit buy-it-now, speed to the LBS…you get the point. Which is, make that purchase before your S.O. clues in on the sneaky game you just played.

And then, get out there and enjoy your new toy(s)!

Exit Question: What other tactics have you used?

How To: Train with GPS

Grizzly Adam — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 11:44:00 +0000

GPS bike computers are quickly becoming a standard mountain bike accessory. In the last 3-4 years the technology has improved by leaps and bounds. Today there are a few companies that are making GPS enabled bike-centric devices, but far and away – for now – Garmin is leading that charge.

The Edge and Forerunner line of products are the very best the market has to offer when it comes to multi-function GPS units. They are the only devices (that I know of) that offer a heart rate monitor, speed and cadences monitors, and a full functioning mapping GPS (Edge series) all in one device.

Right now the Edge 705 is Garmin’s top of the line cycling computer. It has effectivley combined the Edge 305 and the Vista HCx into one compact, functional and really awesome gadget. But that is a post for another day.

People may wonder what good GPS capabilities are when it comes to training. Even if you may not head out into the back country to explore unknown trails, or care much about routing new trails before a ride, or downloading .gpx data into your computer after one, you can still benefit from using a GPS in your training program.

Below are some suggestions on how to better utilize your Garmin device to enhance your riding and training.

1) Download and use Garmin Training Center. While not the most comprehensive training software on the market, it is the one that speaks most fluently with Garmin devices. The best feature in GTC is the ability to design a workout, and then upload it to the GPS device. This can be any type of workout, from a very basic recovery ride, to a complex series of intervals. Once programmed and uploaded, the device will guide you through the training session using audible and visual alerts based on time, speed, cadence, and heart rate.

2) Register at MotionBased.com. MB is a GPS file sharing network and journal. You can upload your ride data to the online database and then view it in Google Earth or on Google Maps. You also have the ability to view altitude, distance, total time, moving time, pace, speed and weather data and much more. Once an activity is uploaded to MB you can export it as a blog friendly widget which you can post simply by copying and pasting a generated code. In addition to the above you can browse and download thousands of .gpx files from other MB users. You can even compare your own data to others, a fun and effective way to see just exactly how you won, or lost, that 50 miler or 24 hour race.

3)Create Courses. Garmin devices have the ability to read ‘courses’. A course is a pre-determined route or track that you have uploaded to the device. A course is a fantastic way to race against a personal best, or against an established record on a known route. Planning on TTing Clarks? Plan a course and the GPS will pace you through the race, giving you real time status as to how far behind, or ahead, you are of your target pace.

4) Analyze your Data. You can learn a lot about your strengths and weaknesses on a bike by looking at what kind of terrain you are best at riding. Using GTC or MB, or other available software programs you can see how fast you were moving on any given point of your ride. Are you really losing time on the downhill? Or is it on the flats that you are slacking? By studying the data gathered with your GPS you can pinpoint areas to work on, and also know when to push to your natural strengths.

5)Use Maps. I love maps. And having just about every local trail archived as a GPS file means that I can get all kinds of data for just about any ride I want to do. But it also means I can take a look at the area around me, search for new trails, and plan future rides in a mapping software, based on the GPS trak that I have downloaded or created. This kind of information has proved invaluable, especially when covering that terrain in the fastest possible time is the primary goal. But being able to look back and simply see where you went and how fast you did it has also been very beneficial.

If you are like me, then after you start using a GPS in your everyday riding and training, you will not ever be able to go back to not having the data it gathers. One of my favorite things to do is take a look at old rides, to see how fast I rode, or how hard I pushed, or where exactly I was going on that particular day. As you gather data, and start to establish a variety of trail files and ride information a picture of your overall fitness, as well as detailed insights into when and why you were fit (or not) will start to emerge. Being able to view your rides on both 3D and 2D maps is informative, but also just a lot of fun. Using a GPS in my training has helped me to become extremely familiar with the local trails. Which means that I know when I am faster or slower than normal on any given trail. And having those trails all archived has also been a big asset when it comes to designing future monster rides.

So when that old bike computer starts to fritz out and you begin shopping for upgrades, consider making the leap to a GPS ready device. Your training will improve, and you you will have more fun along the way!

Garmin Training Center, 2008 Wasatch Classic ride track.

For more ‘How To’ posts click here.